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Kashmir Diaries – The Winter Wonderland of India





Che kya chui naav (What’s Your Name)?.....Hindustan ki Jannat!

Agar Dharti per kahin jannat hai, to woh yahin hai, yahin hai, yahin hai!!!

If there is a heaven on earth, then it is here, it is here, it is here!!

Yes we are talking about mesmerizing Kashmir. It’s truly a paradise on earth!


A place I had visited in 1987 with family had the same charm in 2022. I finally got to see Kashmir after almost 35 long years. After all the crazy stories you read in the news and all the media hype, I finally managed to convince my closest friend that this is the place to be and that she should not worry because “main hoon na!”


And what timing, here I put in my papers, finish my notice period and say hello to the snow-clad mountains in peak of December.


The minute I landed at Srinagar airport it felt like I was going down memory lane.

I have been a big fan of Christmas movies and have also experienced the snow in different countries but when you visit the crown jewel of India, it is the Winter Wonderland of Warmth, Culture, Beauty and Cuisine.


We started our trip with Gulmarg where every road and lane were filled with snow. As the snow shower began, we decided to get adventurous and get on an ATV ride of course with two very chatty Kashmiri riders who fleeced us for that 45-min ride but when there is a big smile on your face, cheeks turn naturally pink and the energy is on another level early in the morning, it is all worth it.


Before I tell you more fun stories, let me clarify the most important thing. Contrary to media narratives, the people of Kashmir greeted us with open arms and genuine smiles. The misconceptions about the region being unsafe were dispelled by the warmth and hospitality we experienced at every turn.

Now coming back to my stories. Walking is the favourite thing for Kashmiris. As we are all set at 9:30 am for our Gondola ride which by the way was around 3 km from our hotel, our dear Faroukh bhai comes and tells us in a very casual tone “Car nahi aa sakti…raat ko bahut baraf giri hai na” – The car cannot come to the hotel and drive us to the Gondola as it has snowed heavily and vehicles are not allowed. Wow! The adventure begins. As we are thinking oops what do we do now, Faroukh bhai promptly says….don’t worry…it’s right here, we will walk it up. Seriously! 3 kms one way..is right here?? Not that we had too much choice. So like two little kids, we start walking holding his hand….wondering why we are holding his hand? Because the entire night’s snow has now turned into ice and we clearly are not ice skaters!


Anyways…after multiple slips and falls and innumerable stop overs for pictures, we finally managed to reach. Little did we know that after one gondola ride, it will start snowing again and we have lost our guide somewhere…all looking the same…completely covered in almost similar coloured jackets and caps. Thank god for my love for colours…he found us because of my bright red hat!!


By the time it was evening, we were frozen! And what was the best way to end the day? Some piping hot pizza, crispy fries and a cup of hot chocolate….ummm…it was delicious!


Whether it is Gulmarg, Khilanmarg, Pahelgam or Srinagar, everything has its own charm. The pony ride in Pahelgam gave me the old-world charm, while our poor little dainty ponies had to deal with these heavy weights putting in double pressure on their bladder. Oh how can I forget the world famous pictures in the traditional attire at Dal Lake which made us feel like we were the original Kashmir ki Kalis (sorry Ms. Tagore/Pataudi). All we needed was a Shammi Kapoor singing for us.


Now the main part…Kashmiri cuisine! So I am a basic chicken eater (boneless), while my friend is a complete vegetarian, not even eggs. A dear friend of my brothers Idris Bhai and his wife Rumina Baji take us to the most authentic restaurant in -2 degrees which served the traditional Wazwan feast, which proved to be a true revelation for us.


It was an 8-course meal and to be very honest, I don’t know what I ate but I can confidently say this to my carnivorous friends that it is truly a gastronomical delight for you. For me I just discovered that Wazwan is not just a meal but a celebration of culture and community.


On a more serious note, let me also tell you that behind the scenic beauty lies the hard work and resilience of Kashmiris. When I visited the saffron fields of Pampore, I realized that the delicate blossoms are harvested by hand, which showed the dedication required to cultivate this prized spice, which by the way I got lots of it to Mumbai for friends and family. The carpets, the pashminas, the artifacts…were all so beautiful but what I packed my bag with was memories of the people, the spirit of every individual, the rich culture and the unparalleled beauty.


Shukriya Kashmir!

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